German Aristocracy, Up Close and Personal
October 5, 2025 – Werthheim Germany
Our little adventure
today was named, “German Aristocracy” so I was expecting something like a
discussion or lecture of family names, and who was who and how they got there, how
they influenced or ruled their particular areas and subjects. Something like that.
What happened instead was we traveled around the beautiful countryside, through one quaint little town after another, out into the Spessart Forest which translated something like the “Woodpecker Forest.” Not to be mistaken for "The Black Forest," but still a very beautiful forest known for its ancient oaks and beech trees.
It was here we landed on an old but new castle out in the middle of nowhere named the Schloss Mespelbrunn. “Schloss” means “castle” in German.
This castle was built back in 1412 and although it has gone through a fire or two and rebuilt, it is still used today and the original Mespelbrunn family is still acting as the ministerial family. Back in the day it was complete with a mill house, a cellar for keeping meat somewhat fresh, horse stables, and servant quarters.
We were taken through the garden and around the gardens, and then invited into the dining hall, which was the largest room in the castle for a small wine tasting and hors d'oeuvres.
The wine we enjoyed was from Wurzberg where we were
yesterday. It was called Juliusspital
Echter Secco, and it was delightful. The wine is tied to the Mespelbrunn family
because Julius, the second son, was born in the family’s ancestral home,
Mespelbrunn Castle. He was elected
Prince Bishop of Wurzburg in 1573, which is unusual for a second son.
It was a wonderful visit to this out-of-way castle that in some ways is still living back in the days of royal family austerity.
Our second stop was at another castle called Schloss Lowenstein, and guess what? This castle was fashioned after the Palace in Versailles, France. The princess said, "I don't want to live in some drafty little castle. Build me a little Versailles!" So, he obliged.
Guess what else? The prince himself was home. He came into the family's chapel on the premises and engaged in a conversation with us for about 30 minutes. He told wonderful stories about his childhood, his family, and his home. His name is … get ready for this … Alois Konstantin Furst Lowenstein-Wertheim-Rosenbert! We call him “Prince.” He is 84 years young and was so genteel and distinguished.
One of the stories he told us was about when the American troops came into his hometown in 1945. He was 4 ½ years old. His grandfather had regaled him for all his young life about stories of a man made entirely of chocolate, and how when the kids saw him they would run up to him, and whoever got there first, got to lick a finger of chocolate …. Something like that. As the troops were coming into his hometown, the first one he saw was an African-American soldier. The prince ran up to him and licked his hand! The soldier looked down at him and laughed and said, “I am not made of chocolate”, but I do have some in my pocket. The soldier gave him his first piece of chocolate, and it was the best thing he had ever tasted!! To this day, he loves chocolate, and when on a trip to Pennsylvania with his own young children in tow, he realized he was near Hershey, PA. So, he took his kids to the Hershey factory, where they took a tour, and his own children were given a taste of Hershey’s chocolate. A story come full circle, and one that endeared him to us all.
After a group photo with the prince, we were taken to the family’s winery just around the corner where we were treated to three types of wine … Silvaner, Riesling and Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir) from the Furst Lowenstein cellars along with a charcuterie board. It was a lovely, quiet morning of up close and personal without the usual guides with lollipops and masses of people.
Our Sunday afternoon was spent with the captain and head engineer explaining the details of how the Viking Vali runs and all the intricacies of navigating the rivers in this part of the world. The multitude of locks and low ancient bridges are what make this a challenging voyage for them.
For us, it was just cruising our last bits of the Main River before we enter the Rhine tomorrow. Tonight is our very own Octoberfest provided by our chef. Can't wait, but it was a beautiful day in spite of the drizzle and clouds.
Vialula and LeRoy
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